By Sandra Marsian
Special to Prime
Editor’s Note: This month Sandra Marsian, former managing director of marketing for the AAA Northeast, joins us as a recurring travel writer. Some may remember her from a wonderful article on her trip to the Azores that ran in September of 2022. We at Prime are looking forward to all the places she’ll be taking us in future months!
In anticipation of my London vacation, the Clash song, “London Calling” kept playing through my mind.
London was indeed calling, as this would be my first visit to England. Given that my travel companion had visited London numerous times, we designed an itinerary that would incorporate must-see sights and lesser-known attractions satisfying both our travel curiosities.
Surprisingly, the low-to-no-cost experiences were among our favorites and I am pleased to share a sampling of them with you.
Set your watch to Big Ben
One of the most recognizable landmarks in the world, Big Ben is merely a nickname for the approximately 370-foot-tall clock tower known for both its accuracy and its location at the northern end of the British Houses of Parliament. Completed around 1859, like most famous divas the clock tower has both reinvented herself and gone under the knife. In 2012, the tower was renamed from St. Stephen’s Tower to the Elizabeth Tower in celebration of Queen Elizabeth II’s 60 years on the British throne. And having undergone extensive renovations covering her in scaffolding from 2017 through 2021, we felt privileged to see the tower in all its post-renovation glory.
Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace
Donning bearskin caps and either red or grey tunics depending upon the season, The Changing of the Guard is a ceremony marking the transition of soldiers responsible for protecting Buckingham Palace and St. James’s Palace. Basically, it is a very elaborate shift change ceremony incorporating music performed by the Regimental Band marching in from Wellington Barracks. The 45-minute performance started at 11 a.m. and was surprisingly fun. Performing songs such as “Do-Re-Mi” from the “Sound of Music” and Freddie Mercury’s “Bohemian Rhapsody,” I couldn’t help but move to the music and cheerfully sing along. Hosted every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, the Changing of the Guard is free and ticketless. Visit www.householddivision.org.uk/changing-the-guard to confirm schedules.
Locking up the Tower of London
The locking and unlocking of the fortress gates began in the 1340s as demanded by a livid King Edward III, after he gained access to the Tower with ease one evening. Ever since, the castle was locked at sunset and unlocked at sunrise without fail. Clothed in the traditional red Watch Coat and Tudor Bonnet, the Chief Yeoman Warder carried the King’s Keys in one hand, a single candle lantern in the other, escorted by soldiers. A mere five British pounds allowed us to partake in this 700-year-old tradition. As part of the evening, we were guided through the grounds by an official “Beefeater” who imparted pieces of historical information in a humorous manner. The Ceremony of the Keys tickets are limited and must be secured online, in advance. Or take a day tour which allows you to see the Crown Jewels, also protected there. Visit https://www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london/#gs.9msjox for schedules and tickets.
Evensong at Westminster Abbey
Westminster Abbey, an architectural masterpiece, and Word Heritage site built in 960 AD is still an active royal church. Whether a first time or repeat visitor of the Abbey, consider the authentic experience of attending Evensong. Seated in the very pews where 16 royal weddings, every Coronation since 1066, and countless other royal occasions have occurred, we enjoyed a religious ceremony and beautiful choral music from the rich Anglican tradition. Find your Abbey program of choice at www.westminster-abbey.org.
Enjoy a spot of afternoon tea
Afternoon tea, first introduced by Anna, the 7th Duchess of Bedford in 1840 to bridge the long gap between midday lunch and the fashionably late evening meal, involved taking tea, bread, butter and cakes into her boudoir during the late afternoon. Eventually she began to invite friends to join her. Word spread, and soon after other social hostesses adopted the idea, and the tradition was born.
We paid homage to this time-honored tradition at the Tea Lounge at St. Ermin’s hotel for about $55 euros each. Set back from the hustle and bustle of the busy city streets, the stately brick hotel seemed fitting for our first proper tea. We climbed the grand winding staircase to the cozy and prettily decorated Tea Lounge. After making our selections from the extensive tea menu, we unwound with a glass of champagne while being presented with a three-tiered tray of treats. Our tray was filled with freshly baked scones with clotted cream and jam, finger sandwiches such as Cornish Brie with roasted red peppers and fig relish, and sweet treats such as Strawberry and basil trifle. As we indulged in our decadent delights, it brought to light the need for corsets in the 1800s.
Step into Sir John Soane’s shoes
Sir John Soane, one of England’s greatest neo-classic architects, built and designed his 1794 home and ensured that upon his death it would be for people to enjoy for free. His art obsession was so that he had to purchase the two homes on either side of him, knocking down the inner connecting walls to house all his treasures. It was an unexpected delight to view Sir John’s vast, eclectic collections of art, antiquities, architectural models, books, and furniture. Visit www.soane.org for museum details.
London boasts history, heritage, and culture and whether you take a hackney, the tube, or a double decker bus, it is easy to navigate its 32 boroughs. No matter how many times you visit, you will discover a new London each and every time.
