
PRIME: What was the worst part of the trip?
Skar: The most challenging aspect of the trip was coping with the blackouts in Nepal. We could go days without electricity. My son-in-law's parent's home was able to access and use some "saved energy" but you still had be flexible. The lack of electricity was caused by the extremely dry weather in the country and the instability of the government. The king was ousted in 2008 and Nepal now is ruled by a Maoist Prime Minister who is trying to move the government towards democracy.
PRIME: What was the most surprising aspect of your visit?
Skar: I think it was the realization of how much the idea of family togetherness is universal, regardless of the living conditions. Even in rather poor, dusty roadside homes with thatched roof and a dirt floor, you would see vignettes of family togetherness . children sitting on a grandmother's lap, getting a bath, walking hand in hand into the fields, doing chores and spending time together.
PRIME: What was the most memorable aspect of your visit?
Skar: It was fascinating visiting the numerous holy sites in the country, which dated back hundreds of years, to see the many Durbar Squares (royal squares) with pagodas built in the 12 century and the stone temple for Lord Krishna with 21 golden pinnacles. These sites are on the UNESCO world heritage site. They were unequaled by anything I have ever seen.
PRIME: What part of the culture of Nepal was the most interesting?
Skar: The Nepali are a very religious people and Buddhist and Hindu shrines and temples stand side by side, many from the 16 and 17th centuries.
Hindu homes, like the one I stayed in, all had a lovely family shrine, secluded in a private room. Early every morning my son-in-law's mother rose and brought offerings and prayed there. The priest visited with blessings on birthdays. When I was to depart, my son-in-law's mother gave me a symbolic meal of banana and yoghurt for good luck and placed a handmade Marigold garland around my neck. A rose garland was placed around my granddaughter neck. She also got the red Vermillion paste tika (third eye) placed on her forehead with her Nepali grandmother's blessings. After this ceremony we could not return into the home which was bad luck.
In my exploration of their religious customs, I circumvented one of the most ancient stupas Swayambhunath, or Monkey temple where holy monkeys thrive on offerings. This hill has been a holy site since the 5th century CE. After climbing 365 steps to its base a vast, white dome painted with Lord Buddha's eyes in four directions,(the all seeing nature of Buddha). Between the eyes is the "nose" which is the eternity symbol in Nepali: unity of all. Hundreds of prayer flags blew in the breeze. Tibetan Buddhist monks in saffron robes spun the prayer wheels, chimed the bells, and fondled their prayer beads while circumventing 8 times. This was their holiest of places, and a site of pilgrimage.
PRIME: Did you sample the cuisine? What was it like?
Skar: The family servant brought hot Elam tea with milk and sugar when we awoke.
Lunch and dinner meals consisted of dal spicy lentil soup, Bhat: boiled rice and tarkari a variety of curried vegetables. They cook in mustard oil and use a lot of cumin, coriander, cinnamon and ginger. It was delicious.
The meal preparations took most of the day, starting with a trip to the market to shop for fresh produce in the early dawn.
At mealtime my son-in-law's mother, the hostess, would wait to eat, overseeing the meal until we, the guests, were done.
PRIME: After undertaking this long journey alone, would you encourage other women to embark on such a trip solo?
Skar: It is said: 'A journey brings us face to face with ourselves' and that was my amazing revelation. Ultimately, we are all alone on our life's journey and this becomes evident when you travel. I gained strength and confidence and cultivated the ability to trust my instincts.