I’m a big fan of a program on The History Channel called “The Food That Built America.” Though I haven’t caught up on all 14 episodes from the two seasons that have aired so far (Season Three was due to drop starting Memorial Day), I’ve seen the stories of the two Kansas brothers who created Pizza Hut (and their competition, Domino’s), the birth of fast food - and in particular - the hamburger, Colonel Sanders and fried chicken, potato chips, Hershey and M & M candies, and so much more.
I found the book by the longtime producer of the Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives,” David Page, “Food Americana,” highlighted in this month’s feature story, just as tempting an exploration of how America eats.
Page looks not at how foods built our cuisine, but how those things that you used to only find in certain parts of the country - like a Maine lobster roll, Texas and Southern-style barbecues, bagels and even ice cream creations like Steve Herrell’s “mix-ins” and the classic flavors of Vermont’s Ben & Jerry’s ice cream - are now available across the country.
He explains how we “acquired” Mexican food - something the iteration that is Taco Bell has brought nationwide - and how that cuisine differs from the “authentic” Mexican cuisine that’s now sweeping from coast to coast.
Page examines recent trends , from how sushi became America’s go-to fast-food lunch to how a single tweet ignited the recent fried chicken sandwich wars.
The product of two years of research, road trips and hands-on experiences, “Food Americana” is a savory read that reflects Page’s belief that “Food is the gateway to understanding countries and culture.” It shows us how America’s tastebuds have evolved, and even, how the pandemic has changed them.
It doesn’t take many pages to realize the book is a labor of love, reflecting the appreciation and experiences Page has had with the foods he writes about.
And the first-time author credits his friend and well-know author Martin Fletcher, NBC correspondent in Israel, for helping him discover the voice that makes “Food Americana” so appealing.
“I sent him my first chapter and he sent me back brilliant notes that helped me frame the book - how much of me, my sense of humor, [and] sense of being there” should be in his manuscript.
“He told me to lighten up, so I did,” Page joked.
The result, a banquet of information about the foods that make us Americans, and a very tasty read. I recommend diving in.
As always, thanks for reading,
Debbie Gardner
