Western Massachusetts brims with off-season delights

PRIME – November 2013 By Mark G. Auerbach Special to PRIME Fall foliage is history, and so are the leaf-peepers. During this November and December shoulder season between foliage and the holidays, western Massachusetts is tranquil. However, many of the attractions, shops, and restaurants are still open and uncrowded, so until the skiers and snowboarders arrive, you can find plenty to do and enjoy within an hour's drive of greater Springfield. I spent a lot of time in the Berkshires this summer covering theatre, and I met a lot of locals involved in the creative industries from theatre to film. Many are transplants from big cities. They demand year-round culture, entertainment, and eclectic dining. It's now here. I also spend a lot of time in Franklin County. It's bucolic. It's the epitome of simple living. When I was a student at Northfield Mount Hermon, and my folks would take me off campus for a "restaurant meal," the pickings were slim. Howard Johnson's held court at the Route 2 rotary in Greenfield, and "Famous" Bill's, now sadly closed, was the go-to place for a steak. Now, Franklin County has a vibrant restaurant scene, where "farm to table" fare has risen to a new level, one worth driving north for. The fun part of researching a travel article in your own back yard is querying your friends and associates on their favorite restaurants, and then trying some under the guise of "research." If you go west. So, you thought that the rich cultural life of the Berkshires ended with the Tanglewood season finale? Think again! The Berkshire Theatre Group (Stockbridge and Pittsfield, Mass.), Shakespeare & Company (Lenox, Mass.), and the Mahaiwe (Great Barrington, Mass.) program events year-round. Incidentally, the best guide to what's happening in the Berkshires is at Rural Intelligence, online at www.ruralintelligence.com. The Berkshire Theatre Group brings a variety of music and theatre events to the Colonial Theatre in downtown Pittsfield. The Colonial is a restored gem of a theatre with great acoustics and decent sightlines, and a large stage that once hosted the really big shows. The Berkshire Theatre Group's highly acclaimed production of "A Christmas Carol," adapted from Charles Dickens' classic and directed by Eric Hill, has performances slated for Dec. 14 to 29. It's a big production with many regional actors – adults and children – and it's an annual delight. Springfield area theatregoers may remember Hill's production of "A Christmas Carol" at StageWest. This one's better. (Tickets: 413-997-4444 or www.berkshiretheatregroup.org) Shakespeare and Company has Rupert Holmes' comedy thriller "Accomplice" running through Nov. 10. For the holidays, they're presenting "It's A Wonderful Life: A Live Radio Play," a unique on-stage offering in the area. The Conservatory performs Shakespeare's "Julius Caesar" on Dec. 13 and 14. It's cast with young professionals who come to Lenox for an intensive program in acting. (Tickets: 413-637-3353 or www.shakespeare.org). Also, on Dec. 7 and 8, Stockbridge hosts the "24th Annual Stockbridge Main Street at Christmas." This western Massachusetts town that was featured in the Norman Rockwell painting "Main Street at Christmas," observes this distinction by reenacting the scene every year. For more information, visit the website www.stockbridgechamber.org/christmas.html I recently went to the Berkshires for lunch with two former StageWest colleagues, Berkshire Theatre Group Director Kate Maguire and her husband, actor/director Eric Hill. They chose The Red Lion Inn in Stockbridge. It's known for its New England ambience, but I had been choosing other options in the area, because I'd found the menu rather staid. A new chef, Brian Alberg, has transformed the menu and kitchen into an ultimate farm-to-table, sustainable dining experience. Alberg sources his food from neighboring farms and gardens. The results were featured in a Food Curated video series (warning: don't watch while you're hungry): http://foodcurated.com/2013/08/the-red-lion-inn-a-farm-fresh-update-to-a-historic-restaurant/ . For lunch, I chose a pizza, laden with local eggplant and peppers, alongside a bottomless coffee cup. Eric had a salad of local greens that looked so inviting across the table. For reservations and information: 413-298-5545 or www.redlioninn.com. Other "musts" on the Berkshires dining scene include: Jae's Asian Bistro on 55 Pittsfield Road in Lenox for exquisite Asian fusion food. The Korean OK Dul Bib Bim Bop is a spicy fusion of noodles and vegetables that is rich and warming. The Thai-inspired Pad Thai is equally winning. For reservations and information: 413-637-9777 or www.jaeslenox.com. Bistro Zinc in Lenox offers an innovative menu as well. I met my former work colleague, Ellen Kennedy at Berkshire Community College and her husband, my college classmate Mark Gold, there for lunch. Ellen recommended the crispy goat cheese salad (on field greens with strawberries and a lingonberry vinaigrette). It was light and delicious. For reservations and information: 413-637-8800 or www.bistrozinc.com. Mark Gionfriddo, director of the Mount Holyoke College Jazz Ensembles and "The Big Broadcast", summered in Pittsfield while serving as music director for Berkshire Theatre Group's "Peter Pan." He recommended a local pub as a great lunch destination. "I've spent a lot of time at Patrick's Pub, next to the Colonial," Gionfriddo said. "The turkey club is delicious and filling. The burgers are large and perfectly seasoned, and the onion rings are to die for – large Videlias dipped into beer batter then lightly fried. The menu has soups, salads, sandwiches, pub fare and entrees." For reservations and information: 413-499-1994 or www.patricksinpittsfield.com . The Lee Premium Outlets are open year-round, and are a great stop off for holiday gifts, before or after your food and culture. For information: www.premiumoutlets.com/outlets/outlet.asp?id=81. And note: the wintery weather can hit the Berkshires before the Valley. Always allow extra time to reach your destination, and be sure to carry along extra change, because the tolls on the Massassachusetts turnpike from the New York state line through greater Springfield have been reimposed. If you go north . I'm very partial to Franklin County. I went to high school there, and I've returned to the Greenfield area many times since for work and play. If you think that this area is just the entrance to the Mohawk Trail, you're missing a host of great places from Shelburne Falls and the Bridge of Flowers that has starred in so many movies yet never received an Oscar nod; to Historic Deerfield – a collection of colonial New England homes and artifacts often overlooked by folks en route to Yankee Candle. Historic Deerfield has some fascinating hearth cooking demonstrations and exhibits. Check their website, www.historic-deerfield.org for a calendar of events. The Franklin County Chamber of Commerce has devised four short driving tours that bring out the best of "Up Country." Find them online at www.franklincc.org/index.php/savor-our-flavor/advancedmodules/attractions. I like to show people Northfield, a town along the Connecticut River about 15 minutes north of Greenfield. Northfield was originally the turf of the Pocomtuc tribe, and the English settled the town in 1673. The town hit its stride in the late 19th century, when evangelist Dwight Lyman Moody, himself a Northfield native, established the Northfield Seminary for Girls in 1879. That school, later called Northfield School for Girls, which became Northfield Mount Hermon School, when Moody's other school, Mount Hermon, across the river in Gill merged. The Northfield campus was closed and sold; it's an abandoned version of its formerly energetic self. The burial site of the Moodys, known as Round Top, is accessible to the public. The view of the mountains to the north and west is spectacular, as you stand atop Round Top, where Moody and his wife are buried. One of Northfield's treasures is its faded lady, The Schell Memorial Bridge, a 1903 steel cantilever truss bridge spanning the Connecticut River. ( www.schellbridge.org/) It's long abandoned, but beautiful, and the local townsfolk are attempting to restore it as part of a bicycling trail network. Steve Tower, co-chair of the Friends of The Schell Bridge board, sees an exciting future for the landmark, if monies can be raised. "A rehabilitated Schell Bridge as a recreational pedestrian bridge would provide a 'nexus' for a whole range of trail systems and bikeways on both sides of the Connecticut River that reaches into existing systems in Vermont and New Hampshire, creating an exciting economic engine for Northfield," he said. As you meander down Northfield's Main Street (Route 10), you'll see a collection of distinctly New England homes. Northfield Coffee and Books (105 Main St., www.coffeeandbooks.net/ ) is a delightful place to stop for some Dean's Beans Coffee, the best in the Valley. (www.deansbeans.com) As you cross the Connecticut River, you'll find the entrance of Northfield Mount Hermon School on your left. On days when it's open to the public, survey the stunning campus high above the Connecticut River, where stately early 20th century buildings and more modern structures blend into the hillside. The steps of the Memorial Chapel offer a panoramic view of the Connecticut River Valley. Check the Northfield Mount Hermon website (www.nmhschool.org) for days when the campus has activities open to the public. If you're visiting the Northfield Mount Hermon area in late afternoon, The Gill Tavern at 326 Main Road in the old Gill General Store, is a must! Its owners, dedicated to the "farm to table" philosophy, present an innovative, locally sourced menu. Peter Weis, Northfield Mount Hermon's archivist, introduced me to the Gill Tavern after the school's Christmas Vespers. The candle-lit dining room was a warm counterpoint to the chilly weather. I never much liked kale before it was served as a side dish, perfectly spiced, and grown on a farm down the road. Reservations are a must. Call 413-863-9006 or visit www.thegilltavern.com. Beyond the Gill Tavern, Franklin County is a mecca for locavores, i.e. people who prefer their food grown responsibly within close proximity to the kitchen. It's also the host to many farm-to-table eateries, those who respect seasonal crops and the way in which they're grown and harvested. Allyson Goodwin, director of Advancement at Northfield Mount Hermon and a major foodie, recommends Hope and Olive in Greenfield. "It's my 'go to' place for out of town guests. Hope and Olive has a festive atmosphere, creative and interesting food, and an awesome brunch," she said. For more information, 413-774-3150 or http://www.hopeandolive.com /. New England Public Radio's Vanessa Cerillo concurs, "Hope & Olive is the best restaurant in Greenfield. If it's packed, here are my alternatives. The same people own Magpie (413-475-3570 or www.magpiepizza.com), which offers wood-fired pizza, and also good on my list is the People's Pint, which serves its own beer and is a local institution among the hippie/hipster crowd."(413-773-0333 or www.thepeoplespint.com)." For casual dining in Franklin County, check out the Wagon Wheel on Route 2 in Gill. My friend, Marggie Slichter at Northfield Mount Hermon noted, "The 'Cowboy Burger' is a guilty pleasure – a local grass-fed burger topped with cheddar, bacon, BBQ sauce and onion rings". (413-863-8210 or www.wagonwheelofgill.comhttp://www.wagonwheelofgill.com/)." MRKT Farm to Table in South Deerfield is highly recommended by Max Hartshorne, editor of GoNomad.com, a travel site, and a first class globe-trekker. "Many of my friends have raved about this place ... not huge portions, but all farm fresh and the chef is very creative," he said. For more information, call 413-397-2190 or visit www.mrktrestaurant.com. In Sunderland, south of Greenfield, there's another world-class "farm to table" restaurant, the Blue Heron, in the old town hall. The eclectic menu comes from locally sourced farms. I can never decide between the Pomegranate Custard or the Artisanal Cheese plate for dessert. Sometimes I just have to try both. The Blue Heron occasionally offers cooking classes, which is reason enough to drive to Sunderland. Reservations are definitely a must, call 413-665-2102 or visit www.blueherondining.com . At this time of the year, it's good to give thanks that we live where we do, in the middle of fine food and fine culture. Mark G. Auerbach is principal at Mark G. Auerbach Public Relations, a Longmeadow, Mass., based marketing, public relations, development and events consultancy. For more information about Mark G. Auerbach Public Relations, visit Facebook and LinkedIn.